THE ISLAND NO. ?
There is 18.307 islands in Indonesia and each one of them has it’s own story. So this was the 10th island in Indo i visited and i felt it’s difference. Maybe it was the Sorake beach with it’s losmens and pushy kids, or it was the weather almost at the equator. Anyway, Nias was our last stop.
There is a huge number of kids on every corner here. I almost haven’s seen any teenager, but just kids from 5-12. Almost all of them go to school, some of them live in traditional villages inland, some of them by the road and some of them at the beach. Those really love surfing and playing in the water and the rest…Majority likes volleyball. Volleyball?! On the other hand they’re all poor, with shorts that surfers left and mothers narrowed them so they can suit their little asses. Broken boards transformed into boogie boards with fins, no leashes. Balls with no air inside, no shoes, but big smiles and pushy voices. You just have to buy a Coco or bread from them. They understand competition so little Chui doesn’t like the fact that you buy the Coco from litlle Alex.
I am looking for perfection on every step i make in life. I expect it from myself too, but the knowledge i have is still not enough to achieve that perfection yet. But the nature did it. She raised the reef at Lagundri point in an earthquake 2005 for just as much, that the wave is a pure perfection. The peeling right-hander that can be really friendly from 3-6ft, but hollowy-heavy from 6 on. I’ve seen the pictures from Koa Rothman and Jamie O’Brien when it was 15ft. Double-up barrels were massive. I talked to the local surfers and their matching stories tell the same. ‘When it’s big, it’s heavy, hollow and unpredictable. You make mistake and it’s game over. You go looking for lobsters for sure’ sais Alex, the local grom who watches and shreds the waves every day after school. Pure perfection in paradise that can be really scary at times. I experienced just the pleasure and the bright side of Lagundri. The waves were clean even when the winds were onshore or the storms came in with heavy rain. At the time of being the crowds left the bay. It was mid-October so i guess the swell consistency took them away. Can not be more grateful for that.
Stone jumping as a part of Owasa (a local party) is peformed by men who are ready the take the wife. They jump over 2m high “stone” which top part used to be covered in spikes. Tactically, this stone jumping also means to train young warrior to clear the wall of their enemy with a torch in one hand and a sword in the other hand at night. In the past, this event was held exclusively like a festivals. For the girls, they used this event for choosing their ideal man, and for men who pass the test will became an idol girls. For those who already have a candidate, he soon proposed marriage. For those who are single may choose their candidate’s. So, fahombo finally shifted its meaning, as if implying anyone who managed to jump over the stones deserve to be called as an adult and married. The guy in the picture jumped for us (in order to take money ofcourse) once. He came out of his house in jeans and soon as we made a deal, he got himself into traditional fittings, made a speed check and jumped over the stone. No biggie! Impressive!
Each morning when eating annual chocolate pancakes, local guys payed a visit to Taja (and myself but mostly to Taja;). Among them there was mr. Bebas, frienldy, local fisherman with bad english and teeth. His intentions to the morning visit were different. He saw me with a speargun the other day and offered me to go fishing with him soon as the water clears a bit. I agreed and in couple of days time, he waited me downstairs 7am and was ready to wait for me until 9am if i didn’t wake up earlier and noticed him. We took our gear and hiked to the point. His gear consisted of rusty spear, rusty hook and a faded mask. When we got to the spot where the fish were, he became really excited. He told me he can not diving with me, because he was a bad swimmer and his gear wasn’t meant to catch fish, but just eals, octopus and lobsters. So i dove for hour and a half and caught a nice lunch. I took one fish as a present for Taja, that patiently waited for me at the porch every morning/evening, and the rest i gave to mr. Bebas. He was honestly happy, as the fish wasn’t on a list of his daily catch here in Lagundri. “My wife make goooood fish curry. Spicy!” he smiled. After that we also made a deal for a speargun. There are 25 fisherman in this area and non of them has a speargun, because it is so hard to buy it. So my tribute was even more special. Mr. Bebas also got a new mask from me as a present and thanks for his “secret spot”. As my daily “guest” i expected from him to show up in the next days. But i guess he got what he wanted and needed, so he didn’t feel like coming back to say hi anymore. Mr. Bebas was a nice, friendly guy, however he didn’t really feel the need to show the gratitude after he got gifts. As mr. Bebas, the rest of the people in Nias are still wildly different from Mr. Komang’s friends. Manners are not their priority despite the fact they still offer every tourist a place to stay.
LAST SUNSET, LAST GOODBYE
There is always the end and so it came for us too. It was a pleasure to experience new places, people and ways in Indonesia and i hope that i will get chance to go back to find some more.