There are two reasons i haven’t written anything this winter. I honestly didn’t have anything to write about since i refused to compete in slopestyle and focused more towards mountaneering. I don’t see competing as a challenge no more, but i do need more knowledge about the mountains and everything that goes along. You can check some of the interesting videos about some lines i did this winter in my video section.
And the second reason is probably the loss i gained since my mother passed away and because of that my life turned upside down. I focused more into getting a full time job as a wind tunnel instructor, writing my final work for once and renovating flat. Probably did all of that just to hide the pain and not feel too lonely. I am not though.
And maybe the reason i am writing about my latest trip to Chamonix/Mont Blanc is that i finally found out that these sports activities are the realest and most important thing in my life. I cannot settle without being active every day and that is not just some random bullshit you might think i am trying to sell.
So, the Chamonix trip started of randomly at the Alpinist section Kranj where Klemen Jakopin aka. Meso approached to me with an idea of skinning up/climbing Mont blanc and ski down. I was up in a sec. Rok Tičar aka. T’č, Meso and i packed the bags and drove to Cham insecure about the weather. Sunday night after work, 8 hours and we arrived to snowy Chamonix early morning.
Monday 23.5. 2016
Snowfall high altitude / rain in the valley. Shopping, cruising around the city and gathering information from Urban, Rok and Klemen. ( Thank you! )
Tuesday 24. 5. 2016
8 am start Cabin closed until 10.30
10.30 am Plan d’Aiguille
start of traverse to Bossons glacier where we had quite a lot of work to cross it safely. Avalanches all around us.
6.30 pm Mullet hut after skinning on debris of a current avalanche just below the hut. Scared already.
8pm Local guide put in the track to start of the ridge of Dome de Goutier for the next morning.
10 pm Bedtime.
2.30 am Forgot to set up the alarm for 1.30 and thought we missed our ascend. Fortunately every one just finished their breakfast. Drank some tea and quickly ate some bread and dressed up into wet socks and moisty clothes.
3.30 am Rok decided to turn back. After half an hour of pacing in the dark with a headlamp on Meso had a skin malfunction and had to call it, so i decided to catch up the team of two frenchies.
After i caught friendly french guys, local guide and his client one of the frenchies had the skin problem too so he had to turn back as well. I joined Benoit and the other two and started the ascend on he ridge. Another group of 6 passed us in the opposite direction. Probably had some other plans or they just got scared of conditions too. There has been 60-80cm of new snow so we had to make our own track. At the altitude that is a hard and painful job. Ben, Guido and i rotated by making the track firm enough for us and the client.
11.30 am Refuge Vallot (4362 m) just about 3-4 hours away from the summit of Mont Blanc (4810 m)
Had the last round up if we continue or not. The ridge was really windy and when we came to the refuge the wind gained. It cleared up for a short time and than closed again with thick cloud. It was changing so quickly that we didn’t have anything else to do but turn back and start with our descend. I felt quite ok for the whole ascend except for the last 200m vertical where i started to hear sounds. No headache just bell rings in my ears.
On the way down to end of old normal route (up) where we started our descend weather changed again to sunny but winds intensified. 2 huge seracs broke, causing big avis on the way just in front of us so we had to move quickly.
12.30am Hut Mullet where i met with T’č and Meso and started our descend back to Plan d’Aiguille.
About 8 hour drive back home and the trip was done.
After going through all of our decisions and behaviour i am not completely satisfied with the risks we’ve taken. Nothing is worth losing anyone in the mountains so keep safe and enjoy your next adventure.